Home
Buyer's and Seller's Guide to Radon" (partial content
from the www.epa.gov website) 
Publication Cover Office of Air and
Radiation (OAR), Office of Radiation and Indoor Air
(ORIA) (6609J) 402-K-00-008, July 2000
EPA Recommends: * If you are buying
a home or selling your home, have it tested for radon.
* For a new home, ask if radon-resistant construction
features were used and if the home has been tested.
* Fix the home if the radon level is 4 picoCuries
per liter (pCi/L) or higher. *
Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases,
may be reduced. * Take steps to
prevent device interference when conducting a radon test.
Radon is estimated to cause thousands of lung cancer
deaths in the U.S. each year.
*
Radon is estimated to cause about 21,000 lung cancer deaths
per year, according to EPA's 2003 Assessment of Risks from
Radon in Homes (EPA 402-R-03-003). The numbers of deaths from
other causes are taken from the Centers for Disease Control
and Prevention's 1999-2001 National Center for Injury Prevention
and Control Report and 2002 National Safety Council Reports.
OVERVIEW
This Guide
answers important questions about radon and lung cancer risk.
It also answers questions about testing and fixing for
anyone buying or selling a home. Radon Is a
Cancer-Causing, Radioactive Gas You cannot
see, smell, or taste radon. But it still may be a problem in
your home. When you breathe air containing radon, you increase your
risk of getting lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General of the
United States has warned that radon is the second leading
cause of lung cancer in the United States today. If you smoke
and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung
cancer is especially high.
| National
Academy of Sciences Report on Radon In
February 1998, the National Academy of Sciences (NAS)
released its report on radon and lung cancer, The Health
Effects of Exposure to Indoor Radon (the BEIR VI report). The
NAS is an independent, non-governmental, scientific
organization. The NAS estimates that radon causes between 15,000 and
22,000 lung cancer deaths each year in the United States and
that 12 percent of all lung cancer deaths are linked to
radon. The BEIR VI Committee (Biological Effects of Ionizing
Radiation) concluded that after smoking, radon is the second
leading cause of death due to lung cancer in the United
States. |
You Should Test for Radon
Testing is the only way to find out your home's radon levels.
EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes
below the third floor for radon. You
Can Fix a Radon Problem
If you find that you have high radon levels, there are ways to
fix a radon problem. Even very high levels can be reduced to
acceptable levels. If You
Are Selling a Home... EPA recommends
that you test your home before putting it on the market and,
if necessary, lower your radon levels. Save the test results and
all information you have about steps that were taken to fix any
problems. This could be a positive selling point.
If You Are Buying a Home...
EPA recommends that you know what the indoor radon
level is in any home you consider buying. Ask the seller for
their radon test results. If the home has a radon-reduction
system, ask the seller for information they have about the
system. If the home has not yet been
tested, you should have the housed tested.
If you are having a new home built, there are features that can
be incorporated into your home during construction to reduce
radon levels. The radon testing guidelines
in this Guide have been developed specifically to deal with
the time-sensitive nature of home purchases and sales, and
the potential for radon device interference. These guidelines are
slightly different from the guidelines in other EPA publications
which provide radon testing and reduction information for
non-real estate situations.
This Guide recommends three short-term testing options for real
estate transactions. EPA also recommends testing a home in
the lowest level which is currently suitable for occupancy,
since a buyer may choose to live in a lower area of the home
than that used by the seller. 1. Why
Do You Need to Test for Radon? a. Radon
Has Been Found In Homes All Over the U.S.
Radon is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over
the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of
uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you
breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the
air above and into your home through cracks and other holes
in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through
well water. Your home can trap radon inside.
Any home can have a radon problem. This means new and old homes,
well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without
basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to
get your greatest radiation exposure at home. That is where
you spend most of your time. Nearly 1 out
of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have
an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). Elevated levels of radon
gas have been found in homes in your state. Contact your state
radon office for information about radon in your area.
b. EPA and the Surgeon General Recommend
That You Test Your Home Testing is the
only way to know if you and your family are at risk from
radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below
the third floor for radon. You cannot
predict radon levels based on state, local, and neighborhood
radon measurements. Do not rely on radon test results taken in other
homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your
home. Homes which are next to each other can have different
radon levels. Testing is the only way to find out what your
home's radon level is. In some areas,
companies may offer different types of radon service agreements.
Some agreements let you pay a one-time fee that covers both testing
and radon mitigation, if needed. Contact your state radon
office to find out if these are available in your state.
|
Surgeon General of the United States Health Advisory
"Indoor radon gas is a
national health problem. Radon causes thousands of deaths
each year. Millions of homes have elevated radon levels. Most homes
should be tested for radon. When elevated levels are confirmed,
the problem should be corrected." |
2. I'm Selling
a Home. What Should I Do? a. If Your
Home Has Already Been Tested for Radon... If you are thinking
of selling your home and you have already tested your home
for radon, review the Radon Testing Checklist to make sure
that the test was done correctly. If so, provide your test
results to the buyer. No matter what kind
of test you took, a potential buyer may ask for a new test
especially if: * The Radon Testing
Checklist items were not met; * The last test
is not recent, e.g., within two years; * You have
renovated or altered your home since you tested; or * The
buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than was tested,
such as a basement suitable for occupancy but not currently lived
in. A buyer may also ask for
a new test if your state or local government requires disclosure of
radon information to buyers.
b. If Your Home Has Not Yet Been Tested
for Radon... Have a test taken
as soon as possible. If you can, test your home before
putting it on the market. You should test in the lowest level
of the home which is suitable for occupancy. This means
testing in the lowest level that you currently live in or a
lower level not currently used, but which a buyer could use
for living space without renovations.
The radon test result is important information
about your home's radon level. Some states require radon
measurement testers to follow a specific testing protocol. If
you do the test yourself, you should carefully follow the testing
protocol for your area or EPA's Radon Testing Checklist. If
you hire a contractor to test your residence, protect
yourself by hiring a qualified individual or company.
You can determine a service
provider's qualifications to perform radon measurements or to mitigate
your home in several ways. Check with your state radon office.
Many states require radon professionals to be licensed,
certified, or registered. Most states can provide you with a
list of knowledgeable radon service providers doing business
in the state. In states that don't regulate radon services,
ask the contractor if they hold a professional proficiency or
certification credential. Such programs usually provide members with
a photo-ID card, which indicates their qualification(s) and its
expiration date. If in doubt, you should check with their
credentialing organization. Alternatively, ask the contractor
if they've successfully completed formal training
appropriate for testing or mitigation, e.g., a course in
radon measurement or radon mitigation.
| A note on what qualified may mean:
You should first call your state radon office for information
on qualified radon service providers and state-specific radon
measurement or mitigation requirements. See Section 9 for information
on which states have certification, licensing, or registration
programs. For up-to-date information on state radon program
offices, click this link. EPA's detailed and technical guidance
on radon measurement and mitigation is included in Section 8;
however, state requirements or guidance may be more stringent.
Visit EPA's web site on radon proficiency for links to private
sector radon credentialing programs.
|
3. I'm Buying a
Home. What Should I Do? a. If the Home Has
Already Been Tested for Radon... If you are thinking
of buying a home, you may decide to accept an earlier test result
from the seller, or ask the seller for a new test to be
conducted by a qualified radon tester. Before you accept the
seller's test, you should determine: * The results of
previous testing; * Who conducted the previous test: the
homeowner, a radon professional, or some other person;
* Where
in the home the previous test was taken, especially if you
may plan to live in a lower level of the home. For example,
the test may have been taken on the first floor. However, if
you want to use the basement as living space, test there; and
* What,
if any, structural changes, alterations, or changes in the
heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system have
been made to the house since the test was done. Such changes
may affect radon levels. If you accept the seller's
test, make sure that the test followed the Radon Testing Checklist.
If you
decide that a new test is needed, discuss it with the seller
as soon as possible. If you decide to use a qualified radon
tester, contact your state radon office to obtain a copy of
their approved list of radon testing companies. b. If the
Home Has Not Yet Been Tested for Radon...
Make sure that
a radon test is done as soon as possible. Consider including
provisions in the contract specifying: * Where the test
will be located; * Who should conduct the test;
* What
type of test to do; * When to do the test;
* How
the seller and the buyer will share the test results and test
costs (if necessary); and * When radon
mitigation measures will be taken and who will pay for them.
Make sure
that the test is done in the lowest level of the home
suitable for occupancy. This means the lowest level that you
are going to use as living space which is finished or does
not require renovations prior to use. A state or local radon
official or qualified radon tester can help you make some of
these decisions. If you decide to finish or renovate an
unfinished area of the home in the future, a radon test
should be taken before starting the project and after the project
is finished. Generally, it is less expensive to install a
radon-reduction system before (or during) renovations rather
than afterwards. 4. I'm Buying or Building a New
Home. How Can I Protect My Family? a. Why
Should I Buy a Radon-Resistant Home? Radon-resistant
techniques work. When installed properly and completely, these simple
and inexpensive passive techniques can help to reduce radon
levels. In addition, installing them at the time of
construction makes it easier to reduce radon levels further
if the passive techniques don't reduce radon levels below 4
pCi/L. Radon-resistant techniques may also help to lower
moisture levels and those of other soil-gases. Radon-resistant
techniques: Making Upgrading Easy: Even if built to be
radon-resistant, every new home should be tested for radon
after occupancy. If you have a test result of 4 pCi/L or
more, a vent fan can easily be added to the passive system to
make it an active system and further reduce radon levels.
Are Cost-Effective: Building radon-resistant features into the house
during construction is easier and cheaper than fixing a radon
problem from scratch later. Let your builder know that
radon-resistant features are easy to install using common
building materials. Save Money: When installed properly
and completely, radon-resistant techniques can also make your
home more energy efficient and help you save on your energy
costs. In a new home, the cost to install passive
radon-resistant features during construction is usually
between $350 and $500. In some areas, the cost may be as low
as $100. A qualified mitigator will charge about $300 to add a vent
fan to a passive system, making it an active system and further
reducing radon levels. In an existing home, it usually costs
between $800 and $2,500 to install a radon mitigation system.
b.
What Are Radon-Resistant Features?
Radon-resistant techniques (features) may vary for different
foundations and site requirements. If you're having a house
built, you can learn about EPA's Model Standards (and
architectural drawings) and explain the techniques to your builder.
If your new house was built (or will be built) to be
radon-resistant, it will include these basic elements:
1. Gas-Permeable
Layer: This layer is placed beneath the slab or flooring
system to allow the soil gas to move freely underneath the house. In
many cases, the material used is a 4-inch layer of clean gravel.
This gas-permeable layer is used only in homes with basement
and slab-on-grade foundations; it is not used in homes with
crawlspace foundations. 2. Plastic
Sheeting: Plastic sheeting is placed on top of the gas-permeable layer
and under the slab to help prevent the soil gas from entering
the home. In crawl spaces, the sheeting (with seams sealed)
is placed directly over the crawlspace floor.
3. Sealing
and Caulking: All below-grade openings in the foundation and
walls are sealed to reduce soil gas entry into the home.
4. Vent Pipe: A 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe (or
other gas-tight pipe) runs from the gas-permeable layer
through the house to the roof, to safely vent radon and other
soil gases to the outside. 5. Junction Boxes:
An electrical junction box is included in the attic to make the
wiring and installation of a vent fan easier. For example, you
decide to activate the passive system because your test
result showed an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). A
separate junction box is placed in the living space to power
the vent fan alarm. An alarm is installed along with the vent
fan to indicate when the vent fan is not operating properly.
5. How Can I Get Reliable Radon Test Results?
Radon
testing is easy and the only way to find out if you have a
radon problem in your home. a. Types of Radon
Devices Since you cannot see or smell radon,
special equipment is needed to detect it. When you're ready
to test your home, you can order a radon test kit by mail from
a qualified radon measurement services provider or laboratory. You can
also hire a qualified radon tester, very often a home
inspector, who will use a radon device(s) suitable to your
situation. The most common types of radon testing devices are
listed below. As new testing devices are developed, you may
want to check with your state radon office before you test to
get the most up-to-date information. Passive Devices
Passive
radon testing devices do not need power to function. These
include charcoal canisters, alpha-track detectors, charcoal
liquid scintillation devices, and electret ion chamber
detectors which are available in hardware, drug, and other
stores; they can also be ordered by mail or phone. These devices are
exposed to the air in the home for a specified period of time
and then sent to a laboratory for analysis. Both short-term
and long-term passive devices are generally inexpensive. Some
of these devices may have features that offer more
resistance to test interference or disturbance than other
passive devices. Qualified radon testers may use any of these
devices to measure the home's radon level. Active Devices
Active
radon testing devices require power to function. These
include continuous radon monitors and continuous working
level monitors. They continuously measure and record the
amount of radon or its decay products in the air. Many of
these devices provide a report of this information which can reveal
any unusual or abnormal swings in the radon level during the test
period. A qualified tester can explain this report to you.
In addition, some of these devices are specifically designed
to deter and detect test interference. Some technically
advanced active devices offer anti-interference features.
Although these tests may cost more, they may ensure a more
reliable result. b. General Information for All Devices
A state
or local radon official can explain the differences between
devices and recommend the ones which are most appropriate for
your needs and expected testing conditions.
Make sure to
use a radon measurement device from a qualified laboratory.
Certain precautions should be followed to avoid interference
during the test period. See the Radon Testing Checklist for
more information on how to get a reliable test result.
|
Radon Test Device Placement EPA
recommends that testing device(s) be placed in the lowest
level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means testing
in the lowest level (such as a basement), which a buyer could
use for living space without renovations. The test should be
conducted in a room to be used regularly (like a family
room, living room, playroom, den or bedroom); do not test in a
kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or hallway. Usually, the buyer
decides where to locate the radon test, based on their expected use
of the home. A buyer and seller should explicitly discuss and
agree on the test location to avoid any misunderstanding.
Their decision should be clearly communicated to the person
performing the test. |
c.
Preventing or Detecting Test Interference There is
a potential for test interference in real estate transactions. There
are several ways to prevent or detect test interference:
*
Use a test device that frequently records radon or decay
product levels to detect unusual swings; *
Employ a motion detector to determine whether the test device has
been moved or testing conditions have changed; * Use a
proximity detector to reveal the presence of people in the room
which may correlate to possible changes in radon levels during the
test; * Record the barometric pressure to identify weather
conditions which may have affected the test; *
Record the temperature record to help assess whether doors and windows
have been opened; * Apply tamper-proof seals to
windows to ensure closed house conditions; and
* Have the seller/occupant sign a non-interference agreement.
Home buyers and sellers should consult a qualified radon test
provider about the use of these precautions.
d.
Length of Time to Test There Are
Two General Ways To Test Your Home for Radon:
Because
radon levels vary from day to day and season to season, a
short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell
you your year-round average radon level. However, if you need
results quickly, a short-term test may be used to decide
whether to fix the home. Short-Term Testing
The quickest way to test is with short-term tests. Short-term
tests remain in your home from two days to 90 days,
depending on the device. There are two groups of devices
which are more commonly used for short-term testing. The
passive device group includes alpha track detectors, charcoal canisters,
charcoal liquid scintillation detectors, and electret ion
chambers. The active device group consists of different types
of continuous monitors. |
Whether you test for radon yourself or hire a
state-certified tester or a privately certified tester, all
radon tests should be taken for a minimum of 48 hours. A
longer period of testing is required for some devices.
| Long-Term Testing
Long-term tests remain in your home for more than 90 days.
Alpha track, and electret ion chamber detectors are commonly
used for this type of testing. A long-term test will give you
a reading that is more likely to tell you your home's
year-round average radon level than a short-term test. If
time permits (more than 90 days) long-term tests can be used to confirm
initial short-term results. When long-term test results are 4
pCi/L or higher, EPA recommends fixing the home.
e.
Doing a Short-Term Test... If you are
testing in a real estate transaction and you need results quickly,
any of the following three options for short-term Tests are
acceptable in determining whether the home should be fixed.
Any real estate test for radon should include steps to
prevent or detect device interference with the test device.
| When Choosing a Short-Term Testing Option...
There are trade-offs among the short-term testing
options. Two tests taken at the same time (simultaneous)
would improve the precision of this radon test. One test
followed by another test (sequential) would most likely give a
better representation of the seasonal average. Both active
and passive devices may have features which help to prevent test
interference. Your state radon office can help you decide
which option is best. |
Passive:
Take two short-term tests at the same time in the same
location for at least 48 hours. or Take an initial
short-term test for at least 48 hours. Immediately upon completing the
first test, do a second test using an identical device in
the same location as the first test.
Fix the home if the average of two tests is 4 pCi/L or more.
Fix the home if the average of the two tests is 4
pCi/L or more. Active: Test the home with a
continuous monitor for at least 48 hours. Fix the home
if the average radon level is 4 pCi/L or more. f. Using Testing
Devices Properly for Reliable Results If You Do the Test
Yourself When you are taking a short-term test,
close windows and doors and keep them closed, except for
normal entry and exit. If you are taking a short-term test lasting
less than four days, be sure to: * Close your windows
and outside doors at least 12 hours before beginning the test;
* Do not conduct short-term tests lasting less than four days
during severe storms or periods of high winds;
* Follow the testing instructions and record the start time and date;
* Place the test device at least 20 inches above the floor in
a location where it will not be disturbed and where it will
be away from drafts, high heat, high humidity, and exterior
walls; * Leave the test kit in place for as long as the
test instructions say; and * Once you have
finished the test, record the stop time and date, reseal the
package and return it immediately to the lab specified on the package
for analysis. You should receive your test
results within a few weeks. If you need results quickly, you
should find out how long results will take and, if necessary, request
expedited service. If You Hire a Qualified
Radon Tester In many cases, home buyers
and sellers may decide to have the radon test done by a
qualified radon tester who knows the proper conditions, test devices,
and guidelines for obtaining a reliable radon test result. They
can also: * Evaluate the home and
recommend a testing approach designed to make sure you get
reliable results; * Explain how proper conditions can be
maintained during the radon test; * Emphasize to occupants
of a home that a reliable test result depends on their
cooperation. Interference with, or disturbance of, the test
or closed-house conditions will invalidate the test result;
* Analyze the data and report measurement results; and *
Provide an independent test. Your state radon office may
also have information about qualified radon testers certification
requirements. g. Interpreting Radon Test Results
The average indoor radon level is
estimated to be about 1.3 pCi/L; roughly 0.4 pCi/L of radon
is normally found in the outside air. The U.S. Congress has
set a long-term goal that indoor radon levels be no more than outdoor
levels. While this goal is not yet technologically
achievable for all homes, radon levels in many homes can be
reduced to 2 pCi/L or below.
| Closed-house conditions means keeping all windows
closed, keeping doors closed except for normal entry and
exit, and not operating fans or other machines which bring in
air from outside. Fans that are part of a radon-reduction system
or small exhaust fans operating for only short periods of time may
run during the test. |
During a
Radon Test: * Maintain closed-house
conditions during he entire time of a short term test, especially for
tests shorter than one week in length. *
Operate
the home's heating and cooling systems normally during the
test. For tests lasting less than one week, operate only
air-conditioning units which recirculate interior air.
* Do not disturb the test device at any
time during the test. * If a radon-reduction
system is in place, make sure the system is working properly and
will be in operation during the entire radon test.
After a
Radon Test: * If you conduct the test
yourself, be sure to promptly return the test device to the
laboratory. Be sure to complete the required information, including
start and stop times, test location, etc. *
If an
elevated level is found, fix the home. Contact a qualified
radon-reduction contractor about lowering the radon level.
EPA recommends that you fix the home when the radon level is 4
pCi/L or more. * Be sure that you or the
radon tester can demonstrate or provide information to ensure
that the testing conditions were not violated during the testing
period. 6. What Should I Do If the Radon Level is High?
a. High Radon Levels Can be Reduced EPA recommends
that you take action to reduce your home's indoor radon levels if your
radon test result is 4 pCi/L or higher. It is better to
correct a radon problem before placing your home on the
market because then you have more time to address a radon
problem. If elevated levels are found during the
real estate transaction, the buyer and seller should discuss
the timing and costs of the radon reduction. The cost of making
repairs to reduce radon levels depends on how your home was built
and other factors. Most homes can be fixed for about the same
cost as other common home repairs, like painting or having a
new hot water heater installed. The average cost for a
contractor to lower radon levels in a home can range from
$800 to about $2,500. b. How To Lower The Radon
Level In Your Home A variety of methods can be used to
reduce radon in homes. Sealing cracks and other openings in
the foundation is a basic part of most approaches to radon reduction.
EPA does not recommend the use of sealing alone to limit radon
entry. Sealing alone has not been shown to lower radon levels
significantly or consistently. In most cases, a
system with a vent pipe(s) and fan(s) is used to reduce radon. These
"sub-slab depressurization" systems do not require major
changes to your home. Similar systems can also be installed
in homes with crawl space. These systems prevent radon gas
from entering the home from below the concrete floor and from
outside the foundation. Radon mitigation contractors may use
other methods that may also work in your home. The right
system depends on the design of your home and other factors.
Techniques for reducing radon are discussed in EPA's
"Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction." As with any other
household appliance, there are costs associated with the
operation of the radon-reduction system. |
Radon and home renovations If you are planning
any major renovations, such as converting an unfinished basement
area into living space, it is especially important to test
the area for radon before you begin. If your test results
indicate an elevated radon level, radon-resistant techniques can
be inexpensively included as part of the renovation. Major
renovations can change the level of radon in any home. Test
again after the work is completed. |
You should
also test your home again after it is fixed to be sure that
radon levels have been reduced. If your living patterns
change and you begin occupying a lower level of your home
(such as a basement) you should retest your home on that
level. In addition, it is a good idea to retest your home
sometime in the future to be sure radon levels remain low.
c. Selecting
a Radon-Reduction (Mitigation) Contractor
Select a
qualified radon-reduction contractor to reduce the radon
levels in your home. Any mitigation measures taken or system
installed in your home must conform to your state's
regulations. In states without regulations covering
mitigation, the system should conform to EPA's Radon Mitigation
Standards. EPA recommends that the mitigation
contractor review the radon measurement results before
beginning and radon-reduction work. Test again after the radon
mitigation work has been completed to confirm that previous elevated
levels have been reduced. EPA recommends that the test be
conducted by an independent qualified radon tester.
d. What
Can a Qualified Radon-Reduction Contractor Do for You?
A
qualified radon-reduction (mitigation) contractor should be
able to: * Review testing guidelines and measurement
results, and determine if additional measurements are needed;
* Evaluate the radon problem and provide you with a detailed,
written proposal on how radon levels will be lowered;
* Design a radon-reduction system; * Install the
system according to EPA standards, or state or local codes;
and * Make sure the finished system effectively reduces
radon levels to acceptable levels. Choose a radon
mitigation contractor to fix your radon problem just as you would for
any other home repair. You may want to get more than one
estimate, ask for and check their references. Make sure the
person you hire is qualified to install a mitigation system.
Some states regulate or certify radon mitigation services
providers. Be aware that a potential conflict of
interest exists if the same person or firm performs the
testing and installs the mitigation system. Some states may require
the homeowner to sign a waiver in such cases. If the same person
or firm does the testing and mitigation, make sure the
testing is done in accordance with the Radon Testing
Checklist. Contact your state radon office for more
information. e. Radon in Water The radon in your
home's indoor air can come from two sources, the soil or your water
supply. Compared to radon entering your home through water,
radon entering your home through soil is a much larger risk.
If you've tested for radon in air and have elevated radon
levels and your water comes from a private well, have your
water tested. The devices and procedures for testing your
home's water supply are different from those used for measuring
radon in air. The radon in your water supply poses an
inhalation risk and an ingestion risk. Research has shown
that your risk of lung cancer from breathing radon in air is
much larger than your risk of stomach cancer from swallowing water
with radon in it. Most of your risk from radon in water comes from
radon released into the air when water is used for showering
and other household purposes. Radon in your home's
water in not usually a problem when its source is surface water. A
radon in water problem is more likely when its source is
ground water, e.g., a private well or a public water supply
system that uses ground water. Some public water systems
treat their water to reduce radon levels before it is
delivered to your home. If you are concerned that radon may be
entering your home through the water and your water comes from a
public water supply, contact your water supplier.
If you've
tested your private well and have a radon in water problem,
it can be fixed. Your home's water supply can be treated in
one of two ways. Point-of-entry treatment can effectively
remove radon from the water before it enters your home.
Point-of-entry treatment usually employs either granular
activated carbon (GAC) filters or aeration devices. While GAC filters
usually cost less than aeration devices, filters can collect
radioactivity and may require a special method of disposal.
Point-of-use treatment devices remove radon from your water
at the tap, but only treat a small portion of the water you
use, e.g., the water you drink. Point-of-use devices are not
effective in reducing the risk from breathing radon released
into the air from all water used in the home. For information
on radon in water, testing and treatment, and existing or planned
radon in drinking water standards, or for general help, call
EPA's Drinking Water Hotline at (800) 426-4791 or visit
www.epa.gov/safewater/radon.html. If your water comes from a
private well, you can also contact your state radon office.
b. Radon Hotlines (Toll-Free) EPA supports the
following hotlines to best serve consumers with radon-related
questions and concerns. * 1-800-SOS-RADON
(767-7236). Radon Hotline, operated by the National Safety Council
(NSC) in partnership with EPA. Order radon test kits by
phone. * 1-800-55RADON (557-2366).
For live help with your radon questions. Operated by the National Safety
Council (NSC) in partnership with EPA. *
1-800-644-6999. Radon Fix-it Hotline, operated by the
Consumer Federation of America Foundation (CFAF) in
partnership with EPA. For help with your radon mitigation
questions. * 1-800-725-8312. A Spanish
(Español) language radon hotline, operated by the National
Alliance for Hispanic Health (the Alliance) in partnership with EPA.
For general help with radon, testing, and mitigation questions,
and free test kits. * 1-800-438-4318.
The Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) Information Clearinghouse is privately
operated under contract to EPA. You can order copies of EPA
consumer-oriented radon publications and get general
information on radon and indoor air quality issues.
* 1-800-426-4791. Safe Drinking Water Hotline,
privately operated under contract to EPA. For general
information on drinking water, radon in water, testing and
treatment, and radon drinking water standards.
| SURGEON
GENERAL HEALTH ADVISORY "Indoor radon gas is a
national health problem. Radon causes thousands of deaths
each year. Millions of homes have elevated radon levels. Homes should
be tested for radon. When elevated levels are confirmed, the
problem should be corrected." |
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